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Fleas And Kittens

 ... Kitten? Fleas and Kittens

Frontline Spray:Prevention for Fleas, Ticks and Parasite

Author: Sandy Scott

The most common worms seen in pets are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms. As we all know most of the puppies and kittens are born with intestinal parasites. Fleas can also bring intestinal parasite to your pets that is why a frontline spray can be a preventive measure in this problem.

Vet always recommend to treat the newborn puppies and kittens, with an effective broad spectrum dewormer such as pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole, starting at a few weeks of age, and a frontline spray for fleas.

Fleas frequently carry tapeworms, which can infect dog and cat's intestines when they groom themselves and swallow a flea. Examples of preventive medication are frontline spray, frontline plus, revolution, promeris and many other.

For heartworm prevention, you can administer monthly with Heartguard Plus, Iverhart Max, interceptor or revolution. These also prevents roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms.

It is important to check your pets feces for evidence of worms. Tapeworms segments can be seen in or around the feces. You can also check by lifting your pets tail and looking around their anus or the fur under the tail. You may occasionally see your pet passing roundworms in the feces or they may vomit roundworms if they are infected with them. You can treat tapeworms with Drontal Plus. Juts be reminded that in this medication you must consult the vet before administering it.

A products such as Pyrantel pamoate or fenbendazole, are also effective in treating this worms, such as tapeworms.

It is recommended to go to the veterinarian regularly to check your pets feces. Your pet's veterinarian will examine the feces for worm eggs and other parasites which are much too small to be seen without the aid of a microscope. Once, there is a intestinal parasite in the feces of your pets, a proper medication can be chosen to eradicate this parasites from the system of your pets. And sometimes vet could also recommend frontline spray for fleas.

Just make sure that the stool sample that you take to your vet is a fresh as possible. Frontline spray and heartworm treatments already contain a dewormer, so adding such a treatment to your cat's monthly health regimen might help fight off an infection or prevent future flare-ups.

If your pets having an intestinal parasites some of the physical symptoms includes, persistent diarrhea, blurred vision, bloating, stomach cramps or cramps when making bowel movement and unexplained skin rashes and as I said a frontline spray could handle this.

Frontline Spray is stored in oil glands under the pet's skin. Throughout the month, the product remains on the pet's skin and hair, delivered through the hair follicles.

A frontline spray is effective in controlling fleas and ticks for one month. However, it is best to wait a couple days after applying the product before bathing your pet or allowing it to go swimming. The Frontline Spray Treatment provides the same month-long protection against fleas and ticks.

Frontline Spray should be applied over the pet's entire body, with care taken not to get the product in the pet's eyes.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/frontline-sprayprevention-for-fleas-ticks-and-parasite-1480793.html

About the Author

Sandy Scott is a webmaster that optimize Ivet.co.uk . IVET consists of a team of dedicated professionals including a pharmacist, a pharmacologist, and two veterinary surgeons who oversee sales and provide the free, practical advice for your pets such Pet Wormers, frontline spray, and Drontal plus in the form of numerous on line information sheets.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    What is the best way of getting rid of kittens fleas?
    i dont want to use bob martin spot on which i bought as i have read the worring reviews online and i wondered aside from going to the vets which is the best product for ridding 12 week old kittens of fleas

    thanks

    • ANSWER:
      ive had cats for ten years and i've always found frontline to work perfectly, the frontline combo from the vets is better than the frontline you can get from supermarkets. I also find myself constantly hoovering and washing cat bedding when i find a flea, this helps a lot. I hate fleas! they love my skin!

  2. QUESTION:
    How do I treat fleas in kittens 1 week old?
    My three kittens are 1 week old and have lots of fleas. The mom never had fleas before. How can I treat all of them, being so young?

    • ANSWER:
      What you need to do is flea treat mom with either Frontline or Advantage. Those are both safe for nursing moms, and will kill the fleas on the kittens too. Change and wash their bedding daily, as that will kill the flea eggs. Do NOT use any kind of Hartz, Sargent, Zodiac, etc flea medication on mom, as it can kill the kittens.

      ETA: Tea tree oil is toxic to cats, do not use it on the kittens even at that dilute dosage.

  3. QUESTION:
    How do you get rid of my kittens fleas?
    I have a 16 week old kitten.He has fleas for like a month now and we gave him flea medicine but that wont work. How do you get rid of the fleas cause the medicine isnt working and it cost alot of money. And another question... why does my kitten not like his beely touched? when ever i touch it he freaks out...! plzz help me get rid of his fleas

    • ANSWER:
      Don't use any more flea products without consulting your veterinarian, because some of them don't mix. They can poison your kitten. Also avoid using any flea control products made for dogs, as they can also be toxic to cats.

      Your kitten may feel vulnerable when you touch his belly, or he may just be ticklish!

  4. QUESTION:
    How do you get ride of fleas on kittens and their mom?
    Kittens are 9 wks. old., and we have fleas everywhere. Washing with dawn soap and flea combing was really useless! Once the kittens were wet, I could see lots of fleas, but they stuck to the kittens' skin, and would not come out with a flea comb (I could catch maybe 3 fleas out of 50 with flea comb and dawn).The mother cat and kittens clawed me real good, and some bit me. I'm well aware of the flea life cycle, and the fact that the environment has to also be throughly cleaned on regular basis. However, I really need to get those fleas off the animals too (it's really bothering them). I don't want to use any heavy chemicals. Some natural stuff is toxic too. I use Diatomeceous Earth on the carpet and the couch some times, and each time cough, and have headache for several days. I've tried vinegar and water, lemon wash, etc.; nothing has worked that well. Can anyone suggest something non toxic for the kitties? Does Cedar oil sprays really work? They are expensive, and I'm broke.

    • ANSWER:
      Sevin Dust works wonders and can be applied directly on your kittens and mom. You must treat all affected areas also with a flea killer such as Raid Flea and Tick spray. You must get these cats on a monthly flea treatment to keep things under control. Your vet can provide the best treatments and actually they are not real expensive.

  5. QUESTION:
    Whats the best way to get rid of fleas on kittens?
    I have two kittens(older than 12 weeks) and I have bathed them with flea shampoo, put flea medicine on their necks, these fleas just won't go away.

    • ANSWER:
      Looks like you're going to have to fleabomb the house. Talk to your vet about it, he'll know what to use. Wash the cats (they'll hate it) before taking them somewhere. Your entire family, after you fleabomb the house, should be gone for FOUR HOURS or more (depending on what it says on the medicine bottle.) This means all pets and EVERYTHING.
      After that, make sure they don't get outside. That's probably part of the problem - I'm not saying it is, but you'll want to check that.


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How Do You Get Rid Of Cat Fleas

Sources: 6, 7, 27, 35]

How to Deworm Your Dog

Author: Debbie Ray

Deworming your dog or puppy is highly recommended to get rid of those nasty little parasites even though many resources we have talked to vary in their overall schedule time. It is very important to note that ALL puppies will have intestinal worms during their life. Below is a suggested deworming procedure to follow with all your dogs and puppies.

Because of this one tiny fact it is very true that all puppies should be dewormed aggressively - starting at about three to four weeks of age with treatments repeating about every 2 weeks at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. It is also a good idea to continue the deworming process on the puppy afterwards at least once per month until the puppy is at least 6 months old.

Deworming Small Puppies

* Begin treatment at 2 weeks of age; repeat again at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. For a puppy that is at increased risk, such as an abandoned or orphaned puppy, also treat the puppy at 10 and 12 weeks of age, and then each month until the puppy is at least 6 months old. Afterward, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against roundworms and hookworms as prescribed by your vet.

Deworming Nursing Dams

* Treat her concurrently with the puppies.

Deworming Newly Acquired Pets

* Assuming the dog is in good health, worm them immediately, after 2 weeks have passed, and then follow all recommendations listed above.

Deworming Adult Dogs

* Treat these dogs regularly for preventive reasons. Also monitor and eliminate parasites in your pet's environment.

Dog Deworming Schedule

Later on, as the puppy matures, it is a very good idea to put the puppy on a heartworm preventive medication that is also effective in treating hookworms, roundworms and other types of worms.

Just so you'll know, infected puppies shed roundworm and hookworm larvae continuously in their feces. Later on, if the puppy happens to dig or play around in the same area where they pooped previously, they will then reinfect themselves. It is very good to know that roundworms and hookworms can be treated easily enough with a good quality overall dewormer.

If your puppy or dog lives in an area where exposure to various kinds of worms is very high it is a good idea to deworm your dog or puppy every three to six months throughout it's life just because. Also, it is important if your dog eats poop from ANY kind of any animal that it should also be treated for hookworms, roundworms and tapeworms as often as every three months.

There are many other kinds of worms that your dog may become infected with such as whip worms and the like. To be sure exactly what kind of worm infestation your pet has, you will need to take you dog (or a stool sample from it) to the veterinarian for a fecal exam.

If you have a puppy or dog and have not wormed it in some time please consult your vet for more information about deworming your dog. If you'd like you can follow the suggested worming schedule listed above. As always, please contact your veterinarian with any questions that you may have concerning deworming your dog.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-deworm-your-dog-625265.html

About the Author

Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.pedigreedpups.com , http://www.the-website-doctor.com and http://www.total-german-shepherd.com, is a lifelong animal lover, dog enthusiast and internet business owner. Interested in more dog information? Training and health tips? Thinking about getting a purebred dog? A German Shepherd Dog in particular? Check out pedigreedpups.com , total-german-shepherd.com or canine-hotline.com for more dog information.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    how do you get rid of fleas on a cat?
    I have bought all kinds of stuff to rid my cat of fleas and I suppose they would work if I could apply them. Getting them on the cat is the problem. Did anyone have this problem and how did they solve it.

    • ANSWER:
      I've had to have help at times to put flea medications on my cats. If I don't have help I just hold down my cat which I learned from the vet/vet tech or have someone else hold them down for me.

      Also you can try using capstar it is a pill that will kill your cats fleas within 24 hrs and the fleas will start dying within 30 minutes. It's about a pill from the vet, if they charge you more than that for one pill they are ripping you off. You can try putting it in a treat that your cat likes.

      Don't use a flea collar they are useless, try Capstar or Frontline Plus or Advantage or you can even use them together which is even better.

  2. QUESTION:
    Treated carpet with salt to get rid of cat fleas, now carpet damp, solutions?
    I have been putting salt on our bedroom carpet every day for the past 2 weeks as our cat had fleas and been leaving it during the day and coming home and vaccuming it up again, although my partner and I noticed that when you walk on it the carpet is slightly damp, how do we get rid of this, will we have to get rid of the carpet?

    • ANSWER:
      Good morning Stressball,

      I have never heard of using salt for fleas. Learn something every day.

      We have two dogs, and they have a big backyard with fruit trees and a big garden. They run in and out of their dogie door. We get a flea problem about every six months.

      First of all, dry out your carpet with a fan. Let it run all day until the carpet is dry dry.

      Second bath your cats. Than put them on a flea collar. This collar will be good for about six month. They do have other things on the market that they say also works against fleas. You can also use them to control fleas on your cats.

      Next. Apply "Sevin Granules", not power, all over your carpet. The same as you did with the salt. Leave the granules on the carpet for about a week to ten days. The granules will not harm your carpet. You can vaccum up the granules just like you did with the salt. This kills the fleas and most important their eggs. We have to do this about twice a year. More in the summer, because we love to camp and hike in the mountains.

      If you do not control the fleas on your cat, you will always have this problem. I don't think it is fair to the cat to have fleas sucking its blood. Your cats will look and feel much better.

      Good luck to you and your family, from Los Angeles

  3. QUESTION:
    How do you get rid of cat fleas? I have tried everything including frontline plus, revolution, bug bombs..etc.
    I have gone to the vet, twice as well..

    • ANSWER:
      I use plain old Advantage. I have over 60 cats in my building at a time and never have flea problems. If we see cat has flea symptoms (flea dirt, itchy, dirty paws) We treat with advantage. The good thing about Advantage that many vets and pet owners do not understand is Advantage is not a Repellent which is WONDERFUL. The fleas in your house or in my case our boarding kennel still go back onto cat to eat and eventually die. See the other products boast about having a repellent ingredient. What happens is fleas live off the host cat or dog and in our homes more than they live on the pet. If you use a product with repellent they will live in the house for months and find other hosts like you.....until the other flea product wares off then they go back to the host. Fleas can live a long time with out food. Not to mention the eggs. But with no repellent the flea is tricked into eating from a poisoned host. If you want info on were to get Advantage for Dirt Cheap email me and I will fill you in with some inside info......

      PS I have never needed to use exterminator in my building in ten years they are dangerous and I am never without many many cats in the building. JUST ADVANTAGE ONLY and I do not sell it just a very happy client.

  4. QUESTION:
    How do you get rid of cat fleas?

    • ANSWER:
      Frontline, Advantage, Advantix, and Revolution are contact flea preventatives. The fleas DO NOT have to bite the pet to be treated. They only have to come into contact with the pet.
      I recommend Advantage only. My cat had a severe reaction to Revolution. Revolution and Advantix treat more than fleas and ticks. In order to treat for the other parasites, the medication must pass into the bloodstream. Advantage does not. I don't believe in using pesticides on my pet for things that it doesn't have. I have no experience with Capstar. I have read the company website info, and it must be used daily. Advantage is a once monthly product.
      It starts killing the fleas within an hour of application. It covers the entire body in 18-24 hours. It works by entering the subcutaneous (under the skin) fat layer. It travels throughout the body and is exuded through the hair follicles. All a flea has to do is jump on the pet and come into contact with the hair for it to be killed. Again, it DOES NOT have to bite the pet to be killed.
      In order to rid your house of fleas, you need to use the Advantage or other products for at LEAST 3 months. The fleas have 4 life stages, the egg, pupae, cocoon, and adult. The eggs, pupae, and adults will be killed, but NOTHING can kill the cocoons. The adults need to emerge from the cocoon before they can be killed. It will take 3-4 months to completely eradicate your house. But it will do the job without hazardous chemicals.

  5. QUESTION:
    How can I rid my cat of fleas if I've already used Hartz?
    My cat is between 3 and 4 months old. I got her a few days ago from some strangers (found them on Craigslist), and they told me that they had just given her a flea bath. I guess it didn't occur to me that they wouldn't have done that if the cat didn't have fleas; the next day, we noticed her scratching herself, took a flea comb to her, and found a few fleas on her belly. We picked up a flea medication at the store (Hartz brand.. I know it's really bad, you don't have to tell me, I'll research medications next time I buy over-the-counter) and used it on her. It's been 2 days since then, and the fleas don't seem to have gotten any better (I've heard that Hartz is like spraying Raid on your cats, but about as effective as water).. I periodically take the flea comb to her belly and always find 3 or 4 fleas, but am never able to get more than one out, because they just go out of sight in her fur, even though she's a shorthair.
    Today I took the cat to the vet, who scolded me for using Hartz, and who told me not to use any other medications on her for at least 3 weeks, since she is young and can't handle much pesticides. She also told me that cats should not get baths (including flea baths) more often than every 3 weeks or so, since it dries out their natural oils.. Much as I have my doubts about whether the cat's previous owners actually gave her a flea bath, I'm somewhat unwilling to risk overdoing it on my cat. My fiancee (with whom I live) tells me that she can't stand the fleas for 3 more weeks, and that basically the fleas go (along with the cat, if we can't cure her fast) or she does.
    My question is: What do I do? My first instinct is to turn to natural remedies.. I'm pessimistic about these, but somewhat desperate. I've thoroughly vacuumed the house, and I am considering doing so every day until the cat is cured. Right now we are letting her roam the house whenever we're at home, and locking her in the bathroom when we're not home (along with everything she needs). This care might help the apartment but won't help the cat, so does anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks for your time.

    • ANSWER:
      Here's what I found from cat-world.com:

      "The best & safest method to manually remove fleas from your cat with a flea comb. Kittens can lose body heat very easily, so if you do bathe your kitten, make sure he is kept in a warm room & towel dried.

      Have a bowl of water with a couple of drops of Dawn detergent nearby. As you comb the fleas off the kitten, place the flea in the water & swish it around so that it drowns.

      Dilute 5 parts water to 1 part Avon's Skin So Soft bath oil & gently sponge or spray onto the kitten's coat. Once dampened, manually remove fleas with a flea comb. Once again, ensure the kitten is in a warm room so he doesn't become chilled, which can be life threatening in young kittens.

      Another method is to remove the fleas with a flea comb & then stick them to some tape.

      Do not use flea medications (including topical/spot on products, flea collars, dips or shampoos) on young kittens unless you have been told to do so from your veterinarian.

      Keep a very close eye for fleas on kittens, as a heavy infestation can kill. If in any doubt whatsoever, seek veterinary attention immediately.

      Fleas can also transmit tapeworm, so once the kitten is an appropriate age, he will need to be wormed. Your veterinarian will be able to advise you which is the best product to use."


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Do Cat Flea Collars Work

 ... Flea & Tick Collar for Cats

Why Does My Cat Do Strange Things?

Author: David P Lee

Cats are very interesting animals. They have certain behavioral habits which, although confusing to their owners, have explanatory reasons. One such act is purring. People wonder why their pets purr - does it just mean they are happy or is there more to it than that?

Why do cats purr

Cats communication using purring. A kitten and its mother will purr as a sign of comfort and, after this, the kitten will continue the behavior through its life. Cats usually purr when something pleases them or when they feel safe and comfortable. It is known also that an anxious cat or one at death's door might purr too, obviously for different reasons.

Purring is interesting because no one is really sure how the cat's body produces the sound. It might be because of blood moving through the blood vessels. It might be because of soft palate vibrations. Cat purring has been tested electromyographically, to show the electrical activity in the muscles of the cat. This could indicate that purring is caused when the muscles of the larynx, containing the vocal chords, are activated. the larynx partially closing, or glottis, could be responsible for the purring sounds.

Face rubbing

Cats rub their chins, cheeks and bodies on everything. It might feel good to them but that is not the primary reason for this behavior. Cats have scent glands located on their lips, chins, mouths and foreheads. They might rub against their owner as a form of greeting or when trying to communicate something, such as a request for food. Cats in a group will rub against one another to swap their scents. Cats together have a 'colony scent' which is useful for detecting intruders. If you bring a cat back from the veterinarian, the other cats in the colony might growl or hiss because of the unfamiliar scents on the returned cat. Cats recognize one another largely through their heightened sense of smell.

Why does my cat scratch things?

Cats like to scratch (or 'strop') all sorts of things. Obviously you would prefer your cat to scratch a tree or its scratching post rather than your best sofa. A cat deprived of a tree or scratching post will strop its claws on whatever it can. Scratching gets rid of loose nail sheath parts which cover the growing claws. Cats also have scent glands located in their paws and the act of scratching will leave the cat's scent on whatever they scratch, to mark it as part of the cat's territory. If a cat is declawed, it will still try to scratch at things, even though they have no claws to sharpen. This could be inbuilt habit or maybe the cat wants to leave its scent on the thing it is scratching. Cat furniture gives your cat a personal item to scratch on while saving your favorite furniture.

Why does my cat knead things?

Cats often knead your lap before they will lie down. In fact, they often knead any surface they plan to lie down on. Kneading is when a cat extends the claws on its front two paws and digs them into the surface which an alternating rhythmic motion. Kneading (also known as milk tread) is first used in kittenhood. When a kitten is sucking at its mother's teats, it extends its legs and kneads the area around the teat. This makes the milk flow out faster. Perhaps as adults, a cat continues this behavior because it feels happy and safe and associates the comfort and joy of lying on your lap with the happiness he shared with his mother. Kneading can also be a sign of good cat health .

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/why-does-my-cat-do-strange-things-190425.html

About the Author

David Lee is an expert on pets for more information see, cat furniture or cat flea control , or pet steps for your cat.

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    My adult cat has fleas so does flea collars really work and are the kittens in danger from the fleas?
    The kittens are only four days old and I am wondering how long does it take to get rid of the fleas and can I get rid of them from the kittens and mother cat successfully without harming them?

    • ANSWER:
      Take all the cats to the vet. They probably can't do flea treatment on the babies right now because they're so young, but they should be getting their first checkups anyway. You'll also get a prescription treatment (or shot from the vet) for the mommy. This is very important because fleas cause tapeworms, and that can make all of your cats very sick (not to mention potentially infecting the people in the house.)

      Make sure to ask the vet for advice on getting rid of the fleas in the house, and treatment for the babies, in the meantime.

      DO NOT attempt to give the cats a flea treatment from the supermarket (Hartz, etc.) These products have been known to KILL cats. It happened to my friend. Don't do it. If you can't afford the vet, you shouldn't have the cats. Give them to a shelter where they can be healthy.

  2. QUESTION:
    How well do flea collars work?
    I just started cat sitting for my sister today while she is on vacation. She won't be back until next week. Her cat scratches all the time and I think she has fleas. How quickly do flea collars or other medicines work on cats? I want to get rid of them fast so the fleas don't get all over my house, but I want to make sure its safe.

    • ANSWER:
      don't bother with flea collars. use Advantage or Frontline. you put the liquid beetween the cat's shoulderblades and it is effective within twenty four hours and lasts for about a month depending on the brand.
      you might want to bathe the cat first though to make sure it isn't dry skin or anything. the cat shouldn't get wet after you put the stuff on for at least twenty four hours

  3. QUESTION:
    Do flea collars for cats really work?
    I took my cat to the vet, the vet noticing my cats collar recommended we take it off 'cause it irritates their neck area and didn't even work anyway?? can anyone confirm this .. or has anyone heard otherwise... maybe it depends on the Brand... cause most are pretty cheap, at about or dlls.

    • ANSWER:
      They are a waste of money and harmful to cats.

      They can cause alopecia (hair loss) around the neck
      They also are the cause for accidental hangings!

      If you see a flea on a cat that means your cat has the 3 stages of the flea life cycle on it.
      Larvae,pupa and live fleas.
      The collar may kill a few fleas that come in contact with the flea collar but does nothing to stop the new fleas from hatching.

      You need to get frontline,advantage or revolution.
      It takes 3 months of treatments to totally rid a cat of fleas.
      As it takes 3 months to kill all the life cycles of the flea.

      Your vet is correct.
      All brands fail to prevent and control fleas.

  4. QUESTION:
    How do flea collars work for cats/kittens? What's the best brand to buy for them?

    • ANSWER:
      Advantage is best, kittens can get hung up on or lose the collar. Many cats react to them.
      A

  5. QUESTION:
    Cat Flea Treatments, are they safe and do they work?
    Hello, I'm a bit concerned after reading reviews on some of these products that they may be dangerous.Some peoples cats have had violent reactions to these treatments and some have even been hospitalized. Also,many of them say that they don't work anyway......I'm in the UK so any help would me much appreciated before I buy one of these products. Is it better to just get them from a vet and do flea collars work?......lot's of questions but it is a concern.Thank you.

    • ANSWER:
      I'm in the United States and am not sure if the products you have there are the same as the ones here.

      I work for a cat vet and we find that there are a lot of bad reactions to some of the 'cheap' flea treatments from the grocery stores. We use three flea products and feel comfortable with both how well they work and their safety.

      Capstar is in a pill form and kills all fleas on the cat quickly. But, it doesn't keep them off.

      Advantage is a drop that is applied to the skin on the back of the neck every 28 days and does a good job of flea control.

      Revolution is also a drop that is applied to the skin on the back of the neck every 28 days and does a great job of flea control and also controls hookworms, roundworms, earmites and is a heart worm preventative as well. This is the product I personally use on my cats.

      We have found all these products safe provided they are used according to the directions and dosing according to the weight and age of the cat. However, as with ANY product, individual cats can have an allergic reaction and you won't know that until it happens. If you apply a product and your cat acts differently in any way, becomes ill, or has hair loss or skin erruptions, call the number on the product and/or your vet for advice.

      My recommendation would be to see what your vet has available for you to purchase at his/her clinic. I would think that whatever product is carried there is one your vet feels is safe and reliable.

      To answer you question about flea collars -- at our Clinic, we don't recommend them at all. In fact, when clients come in with a flea collar on their cat, we recommend they take it off and throw it away. Most flea collars either don't work or are so strong that they cause hair loss at the sight and sometimes respiration problems in the cat. They also are easy to get hung up under furniture or on bushes and fences and if not adjusted where the cat can slide it's head out to escape, can trap the cat.

      Hope this has been of some help. BTW, I have 6 cats and have not seen a flea in years! They all are allowed outside into a cat-fenced area and inside at will.


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Advantage Flea For Cats Best Price

 Advantage Month-Long Flea ...

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    What is the best flea killer for cats aside from Frontline or Advantage?
    We are adopting 2 kittens soon and are looking into flea killers for 2 kittens who are 12 weeks old. I know that Frontline and Advantage are top of the line, if not the best flea killers....however the price is a little steep at per month for 2 cats (when bought in 3 month supplies).

    Aside from these 2 brands, what are some good options for flea killers/preventatives that work well for cats? Both will be exclusively indoor cats.

    Thanks!
    I forgot to mention...I am looking to spend -30 a month or less for both cats combined.

    • ANSWER:
      That's per month per cat....you can do better. Contact your local vet clinics and ask how much their flea meds are for cats, I think you'll be surprised. The vets in our area vary between and per dose for the exact same thing. There's definately a price range on this.

  2. QUESTION:
    Advantage vs. Promeris flea control for cats?
    Which works best for my indoor cats? The Advantage will come in one month supply costing .00 and the Promeris will come with three month supply costing me .00, so not much difference in price, but I want something that will work.

    • ANSWER:
      i use advantage. I have heard of promeris but don't know much about it. Advantage has been around and is well known. I would ask your vet which one they recommend.

  3. QUESTION:
    Any reviews (good or bad) on which flea killer is best PROGRAM or ADVANTAGE. I have 4 indoor cats and.....?
    i need the best protection for the best price!!! Thank you to all who reply.

    • ANSWER:
      Advantage is generally more effective because it actually kills fleas, whereas Program just prevents them from reproducing effectively. So, if a flea jumps on your cat at any point, it will not die if the cat is solely on Program. However, its progeny will be unable to develop from the egg stage. For that reason, it is often recommended for strictly indoor animals like yours, since it is unlikely there will be a new source of fleas.

      All that said, in my experience, Advantage is just generally more effective (and much quicker).

  4. QUESTION:
    best flea stuff for cats, PLEASE!?
    Okay, so I'm doing all this research, but what I really need is personal experience from people...I'm talking about the best (w/ a reasonable price) flea stuff for a cat. So, I've had dogs all my life and it took me years to find the best stuff for them and w/o a doubt its the front line plus (FLP) drops. It says it works at least a month, but to be honest I don't see a single flea or scratch from my dogs for at least three months... Now I have a cat and I assumed that it would be a no brain-er that the FLP for cats would work just as well as the FLP for dogs....WRONG. They seem to disappear for a few days then after a week I see them crawling all over her face again. And after I gave my cat the most recent dose of FLP, I notice either dirt or dead fleas that stayed in the white hair on her for head, so I decided to give her a bath... She was covered COVERED in fleas still, it was so bad!

    She is an inside cat and like I said b4, my dogs are flea-less and I've treated the house. Its not that they're coming back its that they're never going away. In my research, many people have said that they have to get a different flea treatment for their cats then their dogs, but then they go on to list possibilities for a cat treatment. I have full access to the list of possibilities out there, what I need is to know what works.

    For my dogs I had to go through the process of ordering different things and finding out what was crap, before I finally discovered FLP. I don't have the luxury of having the kind of money needed for that right now..So I'm calling upon the many kind souls out there that have gone through this process of elimination and are willing to share their knowledge..

    Please don't answer If you don't even have a cat or you just look up something on the net....I need real people that have gone through this... and if you have the time could you give me some details...tell me what you tried and didn't work so I know what to steer clear of and what not...

    Oh, and please be specific, give me name brands, don't just say drops work or what ever....I know some people think that all the things are the same and the brand doesn't matter, but from experience that is completely false. I tried the Advantage drops on my dogs at first and it had no affect on them, I also accidentally order regular FL once instead of FLP and it didn't work as well, so it does matter....

    As for the people that do help me, in advance I like to say: Thank you so so SO so much, your a life saver and my baby thanks you as well....

    • ANSWER:
      Advantage worked for my dog and cat. Advantage is the only drops that don't make my cat go absolutely ballistic.. I have tried the drops you can buy at the pet stores and they only irritated him. The flea collars and washes only work temporarily. I would recommend the Advantage for your kitty! I notice that by the next day my pets scratching is decreasing and the fleas are fully gone in a few days. Hopefully it will do the trick for you, if not you may have to explore further.

  5. QUESTION:
    what is a good website to get flea treatment for cats at a lowest price?
    advantage or frontline plus is what i keep hearing works best.

    • ANSWER:
      Why bother with a web site, just go to your local Petco, they have all the flea treatment meds.
      As far as the best thats totally up in the air some people have better luck with one and not the other, while others have the opposite work for them.


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Advantage Cat Over 9 lbs. 4 ...

Canine Hot Spots (Moist Dermatitis/Eczema)

Author: Matthew Homfray

Also known as Acute Moist Dermatitis or Moist Eczema, Hot Spots can seemingly appear spontaneously anywhere on a dogs body and the area involved can rapidly spread. This raw, unsightly skin disorder has a variety of causes but the most consistent factor is a bacterial infection. There are a number of kinds of bacteria that can be cultured from a hot spot and fortunately most respond to oral and topical antibiotics. Anything that irritates or breaks the skin can create the right environment for bacterial contamination if the skin surface is wet. The bodys response is either to itch or become inflamed. The itching then causes the dog to lick or chew the area, which further damages the skin, and creates a cycle of itching, scratching and chewing. If left to develop the infection goes into the deep layers of the skin.

Hot spots tend to occur most often in the summer months, and dogs with matted, dirty coats are at greater risk of developing them. Some owners keep their long haired dogs shaved in the summer, which helps prevent the thick coat from covering any dampness on the surface of the skin. Regular grooming enables swift intervention if a hot spot is developing; often they will simply get worse and worse until treated so veterinary help is advisable. A hot spot that is left untreated may turn into a lick granuloma, which can be difficult to get rid of.

Typical locations for "hot spots" are the side of the face and the flank areas. Golden retrievers and young dogs seem to be predisposed, while they are seldom, if ever, found in cats.

What to look out for
– Scratching or biting at one area incessantly – A patch of hair loss with reddened moist skin, often with a film of pus – Scabs and crusts – Surrounding hair wet from saliva

Diagnosis is usually obvious from the clinical signs, but your veterinarian may be inclined to search for any contributing factors by doing allergy testing, or take a bacteriology swab so that antibiotic selection is targeted specifically at the bacterium responsible. If the hot spot is on the dogs back leg it is worth checking the anal glands are not the source of the discomfort by emptying them.

Treatment
– Clip the hair around the hot spot. The hot spot may be more extensive than it originally appears. Clipping will expose the area to the air and accelerate healing (scabbing over) – Topical medication: the area can be cleaned with an antiseptic solution suchas chlorhexidine, and a topical antibiotic cream applied. There is little point of this if the dog will simply lick the cream off (i.e. use buster collar, or only use topical cream if hot spot on face) – Break the scratch cycle. To allow the hot spot to heal, the dog must stop scratching at it. A one off steroid injection is usually very effective, but sometimes a short course of oral steroids is necessary. Your dog may be more hungry and thirsty while receiving corticosteroids, this is a common side effect. As a consequence, the dog may need to urinate more frequently than normal. – Oral antibiotics. The best way to deal with a deep skin infection is to deliver antibiotics to the site of the hot spot via the blood stream. If a hot spot is quite advanced, at least a 10-14 day course of a broad spectrum antibiotic is required to prevent immediate recurrence. – Elimination of predisposing factors: aggressive flea control, investigation to rule out food and pollen allergies etc.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/canine-hot-spots-moist-dermatitiseczema-70962.html

About the Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com - Expert Answers for all your Pet Questions

Visit them today, you will be impressed by the quality of their pet experts and the speed with which your question is answered!

Frequently Asked Questions

  1. QUESTION:
    How long do I have to wait to re-treat with spot on flea treatment for cats?
    I have two cats (both over 9 pounds) that have had fleas for a month. I bought them a spot on flea treamtent at Petsmart that did not work. It has been 3 weeks since I treated them. Would it be safe for me to treat them with Advantage now? I dont want them to overdose but all three of us are miserable...please help! Plus any helpful hints for fleas would be appreciated.

    • ANSWER:
      every three months

  2. QUESTION:
    Flea Treatment for Large Cat?
    Hi there,

    I have a 21 pound MaineCoon Cat that has fleas. A couple of weeks ago, I gave him a bath (which is quite difficult with such a large kitty!) and then used an application of Advantage flea drops for the back of the cat's neck. I also was sure to clean couches, chairs, carpets, etc. I know it takes some time to work, but I am still finding live fleas in the house, both on my cat and elsewhere.

    Because the flea treatment only comes in dosages for cats under 9 pounds or over 9 pounds, should I be using more than one tube? What is the difference between the flea treatments for dogs and cats and would it be harmful to use one for a small dog?

    Thanks very much!

    • ANSWER:
      Did you get the Advantage from your vet? Your vet would have altered the dose if he thought the Advantage for over 9 lbs. wouldn't be enough.

      Also, the reason you are still seeing live fleas is because the flea cocoons are now hatching.
      Fleas have a four stage life cycle: The egg, the nymph, the cocoon and the adult.
      Flea products will kill the eggs, the nymphs, and the adults. Nothing can kill the pupating flea in its cocoon. You have to continue using the Advantage for at least 4 months RELIGIOUSLY. This will eradicate the fleas.

      The reason I asked if you got your Advantage from the vet is because there are counterfeit products out there that do nothing for fleas.

      Edit: If your cat has no chance of getting ticks (indoor only cat) you don't want to use Frontline. I don't believe in using pesticides that my pets don't need.

      Edit 2: DO NOT order from overseas sources. Those are most often counterfeit.
      And I don't recommend Revolution to anyone. Revolution treats more than just fleas. It treats for an intestinal parasite, earmites and a type of mange among other things. In order to treat for all those parasites the drug must enter the bloodstream.
      It almost killed my cat on the second dose. Had I not realized what was happening and I dosed her again when it was due, she would have probably died.
      As I said previously, I also don't believe in treating for parasites my cat doesn't have.
      Advantage does NOT enter the bloodstream. It works by entering the fatty layer right below the skin. It travels through the fatty tissue and deposits in the hair follicles. It then travels on the hair. All a flea has to do is come into contact with the fur to be killed.


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