Archive for January, 2011

Bayer Advantage Flea

Thursday, January 27th, 2011 at 2:50 pm

Annuity Settlement Options: Annuitize Or Lump Sum?

Annuity settlement options can be puzzling. Many people have purchased annuities of all types for the tax deferral feature. For many retirees the time has come to make the shift from accumulation to payout. Here are some considerations to help determine what's best for you.

The most popular annuity settlement option is annuitization to take payments over a time frame that you select, which may include the rest of your life. When you annuitize, you receive payments (monthly, semi-annually, annually) in exchange for surrendering your annuity to the annuity insurance company. Your annuitization options usually include:

Lifetime Income

Period Certain

Period Certain Plus Life

Here is how Lifetime Income works. Let's say you have 0,000 in an annuity and the insurance company calculates that, due to your age and gender, it will pay you ,500 a month for as long as you live. You collect ,500 the first month, ,500 the next month, and ,500 the following month. Then you get run over by a truck and die. You bet the insurance company you would outlive your 0,000 and you lost. ,500 is all you get; they keep the rest. This is maybe not such a good deal.

Your second option is called Period Certain. This means you can take your money out over a period of 5, 10, 15, or 20 years. The insurance company guarantees to pay out all your money (plus interest) over that period. If you do not live to the end of the period, your beneficiary gets the remaining money in your annuity over the balance of the period. Live or die, you or somebody else gets back all your money.

The third option is Period Certain Plus Life. Here the insurance company guarantees to pay you a check each month for a certain period of time, plus, if you live beyond that period (even if you live to be 150 years old) you'll receive monthly income that you cannot outlive.

The choices are not so simple. A monk in a monastery, for example, may well expect to live to a ripe old age and do better with a Lifetime Income (Although I wonder what he would spend the money on). Someone with a terminal illness may want to take a lump-sum settlement or a 5-year Period Certain. Take a close look at factors such as your health and spouse's health, your age and spouse's age, other sources of income, and your tax bracket.

For more flexibility you could opt for Systematic Withdrawals. In this case, you would receive a fixed percentage of the account value or a fixed monthly amount. You could stop this arrangement at any time and simply withdraw your remaining balance.

Although Systematic Withdrawals appear to have advantages over annuitization, note these two differences: With annuitization as your annuity settlement option, you can lock in a guaranteed monthly income regardless of the performance of your annuity. In addition, annuitization lengthens the tax deferral period since only part of each payment is taxed. The IRS considers the other part of your payments a return of principal.

Finally, you may want to just keep the annuity growing and not take payments at all. Some annuities, however, do not allow this and force withdrawals by a certain age. One option for you is a tax-free exchange to another annuity that may have more liberal withdrawal requirements, but watch out for surrender charges on your existing policy.

You probably never thought getting a check could be so complicated. It's really not as messy as it sounds. In fact, I have annuity agents all across America who specialize in solving such problems. There is no charge or obligation. To have your choices compared, we would be happy to review any type of annuity settlement option and figure the most appropriate withdrawal option for you. Just click on Professional Review and fill out the form.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/insurance-articles/annuity-settlement-options-annuitize-or-lump-sum-69927.html

About the Author

http://www.insurance-quote-advisor.com/annuity-settlement-options.html Gary Le Mon is a wholesale distributor of fixed indexed annuities for Allianz, American Equity, Sun Life Financial, and ING. Author and developer of the Safe Money Seminar, a financial planning seminar for Seniors, Gary serves as guest speaker on behalf of agents and agencies nationwide. He is coach, mentor and motivator to over 700 general agents in his insurance marketing organization, InsuranStar Marketing. See also Free-Insurance-Leads.com

Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
Can I use Bayer Advantage flea treatment for dogs on my cats?
I have a yellow lab who has fleas. I treated her with Advantage 100. Can I use the same stuff on my cats if I use a lot less? Is it the same ingredients?
- ANSWER:
  Never, ever use flea product intended for dogs on cats. You will likely not get the dosage right, and depending on the brand, it could really make your cat very sick.
QUESTION:
What is the best place on the web to buy Bayer Advantage Flea Control?
- ANSWER:
  The only safe place to buy your products is your vet. Most will price match, just ask them. Since it is a Rx, only licensed vets should be selling it. Be aware the Frontline and Advantage are made in the US. Some products are designed to look like these, but are made in other countries. These knock off products are not only ineffective, but can be dangerous.
QUESTION:
Bayer Advantage for fleas?
I used bayer advantage for fleas on my 3 cats 3 days ago. I have found one flea on each of them today but when i put the flea in my finger it just kind of ran around it couldn't jump away. Is it normal to keep finding fleas? The website and vet both told me after 48 hours I should find no more fleas? Has this happened to anyone else?
- ANSWER:
  It's normal to find stragglers around this point- the one you observed was weakened from the toxins in the flea treatment and was dying. The website does say 48 hours but in my experience it can take a little longer than that for them to die off.
  
  Make sure your house is treated too- most of the fleas aren't coming from the cat, but from your surroundings. If you haven't already, be sure to vac the rugs, wash any loose fabrics like curtains, drapes, bedding, etc and make sure the floors have been washed. When you kill the fleas in the environment, you ruin their chances to re-infest the cat.
  
  Do the Advantage every month and I guarantee you'll always be flea-free. Best of luck winning the battle against these pesky insects.
QUESTION:
Is there a difference between k9 advantage and bayer advantage for dogs?
I went to petco and was going to try the advantage meds for fleas and when I got home I saw it said bayer advantage. How much difference is there. I got it because it had a 4 month supply versus 3. They said the frontline and advantage were about equal in effectiveness. I do have him on sentinel tabs too
What is bayer advantage. Or is that the same as k9 advantage I bought it from petco was in a locked case
- ANSWER:
  Advantage:
  •kills fleas quickly, which helps reduce the risk of secondary problems such as flea allergy dermatitis and tapeworms
  •within 12 hours, 98-100 percent of fleas are dead
  •Flea larvae is killed in the pets surrounding following contact with an Advantage treated pet.
  •kills 100% of chewing lice within one week and lasts for a full month1
  •waterproof
  
  K9 Advantix is the only topical product that repels and kills ticks, fleas and mosquitoes while repelling biting flies and killing chewing lice too.
QUESTION:
Which advantage flea removal do you use on rabbits?
I know that it is the advantage by bayer but which one by bayer are you supposed to use?

Also if anyone knows what stores carry it please tell me.
- ANSWER:
  I would recommend that you use the tubes from Advantage for cats the same weight as your rabbit. Advantage is the only tube flea removal proven to be safe for rabbits. I think that some Advantage tubes for cats are also labeled for rabbits, but I would use one for cats of the same weight. In order to double check, call your rabbit savvy vet to assist you.
  
  The biggest difference between dog and cat flea tubes are the amount of active ingredient. A large dog has more room for fleas, therefore needs a larger dose of active ingredient.
  
  The tube should be available at any pet store, but you can purchase it online if you can't find it in stores.
  
  I recommend this site for more about flea treatments:
  http://www.allearssac.org/fleas.html
  
  This is a House Rabbit Society article. It states that "Dr. Brick says you will likely never find a product that is marketed especially for rabbits, simply because it wouldn't be cost-effective for manufacturers to focus on such a small group of pet owners. However, she points out, many of these cat-and-dog products are first tested on rabbits, prior to being approved and mass-manufactured. If in doubt about any particular product or approach, of course, the safest and smartest thing to do is to consult your veterinarian to double-check."

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Flea Spray Cats

Thursday, January 27th, 2011 at 8:31 am

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Uncovering True Wholesale Bulk Apparel for Selling at Flea Markets

Author: Cliff PerryNavarro

When I first got interested in the t-shirts wholesale enterprise, I thought that it will be almost impossible to succeed. You see, there were already so many individuals concerned with t-shirt display screen printing. How could you make a distinct segment in a market where the products were really easy to make, and there were already so many well-established people. At the time, I have to confess, I was a bit naive. I really didn't know all that a lot about the best way the clothes wholesale enterprise works.

First of all I think we need to establish what type of clothing you are looking for. Supply and demand merely don't apply to clothes, until you might be working with costly and laborious-to-find t-shirts wholesale. It is all about buzz. There are a few questions that will tell you a lot about the type of wholesaler you are looking for: If the t-shirts wholesale are blank, then are you willing to buy in bulk? When starting a clothing company, having t-shirts printed or outfitting an existing group, you should buy in bulk. This is a no brainer but if you are going to buy more merchandise you will always get the supplier to give you a better price..

Some companies will automatically give better prices according to the dollar amount purchased, or the quantity purchased. I believe that a company who allows the dollar amount to affect the discount is the better option. There are also the brick and mortar stores that you could buy from. The pros and cons of these stores are about the same for any industry. You can go in and see the product. Feel it, try it on and of course go home with it the same day. They have to make their lease or mortgage payment, pay their employees and stock their shelves. When you add advertising and utilities, it is almost impossible with them to compete with online stores, let alone online wholesale stores.

I have heard some people talking about the great price on t-shirts wholesale they saw at one of those big-box retailers. The prices were about per shirt. This is about more per piece than you will find online. I would agree with these people. Look for FREE SHIPPING. This is not an unreasonable request. Some clothing suppliers do not offer free shipping ever on t-shirts wholesale. The problem is that they get free shipping from the manufacturer or supplier if the order is over a specified dollar value. Why are they not passing that on to you? I will let you answer that question. They have to ship it to themselves, so it can be altered, and then to you when it is done. Never should you be charged for both of the shipping.

If you are going to have your clothing screen printed or embroidered, here are some suggestions. You should give yourself a minimum a two-week turn around period. You can usually get a better price on t-shirts wholesale from an online store than a screen-printing and embroidery shop. There should not be a delay when buying online. Many online merchants will ship directly to the company you have chosen to do the work. Returns and exchanges and not handled like in a brick and mortar fashion. Make sure that you are happy with the size, color, quantity and model before placing your order. Or you will be subjected to a restocking fee and return shipping costs. You may not get to see the actual t-shirts or try them on. However if you are buying a brand that you are familiar with the only concern is size and color, but with color and sizing charts this can be less of a concern.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/shopping-articles/uncovering-true-wholesale-bulk-apparel-for-selling-at-flea-markets-2964086.html

About the Author

Trying to blank t-shirts in bulk can be take a lot of practice, but with a little practice, you will be a pro at spotting the bargains and putting some cash back in your pocketbook.

Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
a good flea spray for cats and dogs?
I am in need of a good flea spray for dogs and cats. I was using frontline but it doesn't seem to be any good anymore and the price has almost doubled. I have 7 cats and 6 dogs with mine and my mothers to spray so I need something cheap but good. What does everyone else use out there. I live in WV if that would help send me to a place to purchase something.
- ANSWER:
  I use k9 advantix. no problems with any bugs at all!! I've read id you feed them garlic it naturally keeps them away. do a search on natural flea repellents. I'm sure it'd probably be the cheapest way.
QUESTION:
what happens if i use cats only flea spray on a dog?
so my dog has fleas and i bought this flea spray that you spray on the dog and on their bedding but it was only after i sprayed it on my dog when i realized it was for cats only!!! whats gonna happen to my dog? anything? what should i do?
yea she is bigger shes a pit, about one or two years old
- ANSWER:
  it might not have the same potency as dog medicine. but NEVER put dog solutions on a cat..that could ultimately kill a cat.
QUESTION:
What is the difference between Harts Flea and Tick Spray for Cats and Dogs?
I have both a dogs and cats but i only bought Harts flea and tick spray for my dog but my cats seem to have more ticks then my dog does..so i was wondering if i could just use the flea and tick dog spray on my cats. I mean i don't know what the difference is between them.
- ANSWER:
  Dog formulas can poison cats, the chemicals used are in the wrong concentration.
  
  Actualy, given the number of lawsuits against Hartz, I really REALLY would not use any of their flea or tick products. The internet is full of stories from people who have had their pets die from the doses. Two years back the FDA had ordered all Hartz flea products off the market, then didn't follow through with making sure they removed them. The poisonings still continue, according to any web search.
QUESTION:
How do I get my 2 cats to like their scratch pad again after I sprayed it with flea spray?
They ustu love it. Than they got fleas and I sprayed the house and sprayed their scratch pad with flea spray. Its the only thing with carpet in the whole house and now the fleas are gone but the cats won't touch the scratch pad. How do I get them to like it again. And I don't want to buy a new one because it is large and expensive.
- ANSWER:
  rub it down with a bunch of ground up cat nip in a hand towel.
  make sure you have your camera battery charged up,just in case they really love it again . .
QUESTION:
Flea spray for cats?
Hi there. My cats run a mile if I try and spray them with a 'silent' flea spray (the sound the pump makes is still really obvious despite what it says on the label!) so I have taken to spraying the stuff onto my hand in the next room, then coming in and stroking / scratching the cats' backs so that they think I am just petting them, which seems to be a bit more successful. I am wondering if it is safe to do this? Administering the liquid in this way won't hurt my cats will it? The spray contains pyrethrins and piperonyl butoxide.

The fleas are proving to be a pig to get rid of - we have tried shop bought remedies (such as the spray I just mentioned) spot -on treatments to dab onto their necks from the vet, and various carpet and furnishing treatments and collars. Has anyone had great success with any particular flea control regime that they could tell me about? Thanks!
- ANSWER:
  Over the counter flea sprays are notorious for making cats sick, so you shouldn't use them. I had a cat that I used a flea spray on in the middle of the night and she got extremely ill and I had to call an emergency vet in the middle of the night, and give her a bath. It's a very scary thing to see your cat get sick. Stay away from hartz products too. You're best bet is advantage and frontline. Advantage is great, but I understand frontline protects against ticks and ear mites as well, and a few other things. You can get advantage and frontline at your vet's, I pay 9 dollars a tube for advantage, it lasts for 28 days. EDIT If your cat has fleas then I'm sure your house does too. You need to vacuum very day for a few weeks and remove and seal the vacuum bag and get it out of your house. You need to treat your house, bomb, spray, or get an exterminator. If the first time you bomb doesn't do the trick, switch to a different method, fleas can become immune to chemicals. Mop your floors, that's all you have to do, you don't need chemicals. Wash your bedding and cat bedding in hot water. Spray the bottom of you drapes, for some reason they get in there, I don't know why. It usually takes more than one attempt to get rid of fleas that's why an exterminator is a good idea. Good luck.

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All About Traveling With Cats

Thursday, January 27th, 2011 at 6:56 am

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If you are planning to travel with your cat, first ask yourself these questions: Are cats allowed at my destination? If so, will my cat adjust to conforming to regulations concerning pets and really be happy away from home? Cats tend to be creatures of habit and it is important that your cat can adapt to change.

The pets who travel best are those who have been trained to ride in a car. If you would like to include your cat in your travel plans, accustom it to riding in the car. Ideally this training begins in kittenhood and it should be a happy experience for the kitten. Dont make the kittens first car ride a trip to the veterinarian. Begin by allowing the kitten to sit in the car to become familiar with the surroundings. Then take it for a short drive each day, even if it is only around the block.

If your cat seems unable to adjust to travel, you may decide that you and your cat will be happier if it stays home. Search out a responsible sitter or a boarding facility. If you choose to board your cat, make reservations well in advance of the trip, particularly during summer months and around major holidays.

The policy regarding cats varies with motels and hotels. Contact the reservations department in advance of your trip to determine if your cat will be welcome. Do not leave a cat unattended in a room. If a maid were to enter, the cat could become frightened and might run from the room. If, for any reason, you must leave the cat alone in the room for a short period of time, place it in its carrier or post a do not disturb sign on the door. If your cat is not in a carrier or in a secure location at your travel destination, keeping it on a leash is recommended.

When you travel with a cat, a change in its environment and routine may be a jolt to its feeling of security. Your love and understanding are needed to reassure your cat and to help it become a good travel companion.

Preparing for the Trip: If you plan to take your cat with you, be certain its vaccination shots are up-to-date. Your veterinarian will also issue health and rabies certificates which may be needed if you fly and will certainly be needed if you cross international borders. Carrying these certificate with you is a good idea. If you should have to board your cat during the trip, the kennel may require proof of immunization.

Your cat will also need its grooming equipment and its regular grooming schedule should be maintained. This is particularly true for longhaired cats to avoid tangled and matted hair which can lead to skin infections.

Do not feed your cat for at least three hours before leaving on a trip. Feed it shortly after arriving at your destination unless the trip is a long one. In that case, provide a snack and water during the trip. If the cats usual diet is not available at your destination, take a supply with you so no digestive upsets will be caused by a sudden diet change.

If your cat is accustomed to wearing a collar (a stretch collar designed for cats) be certain an identification tag is attached to the collar. The ID tag should give the cats name, your name, home address and telephone number including the area code, and, if possible, your vacation address and telephone number. Take pictures of your cat and write a description of your cat, including its height, weight, color, and any distinguishing marks to take with you. If your cat should become lost, these identification aids could make the difference in finding it.

Traveling By Air With Your Cat: If you are traveling by air with your cat, ask about what health certificates are needed. They vary with airline and your destination. There are usually two basic options for air travel. Some airlines allow cats to travel (generally for a fee) with their owners if a carry-on carrier fits under the passenger seat. The other option is to rent or purchase a flight crate which meets airline regulations and the cat is transported in the crate in the baggage compartment.

Because some airlines have limited space to accommodate pets, always make reservation well in advance.

On the day of the flight bring a cushion or blanket to put on the crate floor. Check to see if the water cup is attached to the crate door. The cup should be deep and not too full of water to avoid spilling. On a short flight, you may wish to detach the cup and store it with your luggage and provide water for drinking at the end of the flight.

To reduce the risk of air travel for your cat, try to avoid peak travel periods when delays and stopovers are longer. Traveling in extreme cold or hot weather could be dangerous if your cat must wait very long before loading and unloading. Plan the trip with as few stops and transfers as possible. Pets in transit tend to sleep the hours away, but during stops and transfers they may become frightened. Airport facilities vary and, as a result, pets may be left in the sun or rain without adequate protection or inadequate food or water during long waits between flights. At the end of your trip, pick up your cat promptly.

Plane travel is the fastest way to reach your destination, but some risk is involved for kittens, older cats or cats with health problems. If you have doubts, consult your veterinarian.

International Travel: If you are planning on international travel or relocation or a trip to Hawaii, keep in mind that certain countries require a quarantine at the owner's expense. When you return, a quarantine office at customs will check documents and inspect your pet. The official may require confinement of any pet you have purchased abroad. Normally this is in your home rather than in official quarantine. Pets purchased abroad all require proof of immunization, certificates of good health, and payment of import duty.

Traveling By Car With Your Cat: If you are traveling by car, a carrier is a must. It should be strong, well-ventilated and one the cat cannot escape from. Before traveling, place the carrier where the cat can become acquainted with it. Placing a favorite toy or blanket in the carrier may help accustom the cat to the carrier. Take the cat for several rides around town in the carrier before attempting a longer trip.

While you are driving, always keep the cat confined in the carrier. This ensures safe, comfortable driving for you and your cat. Place a soft mat or cushion on the carrier floor. During hot weather never put the carrier on the sunny side of the car where it will become overheated.

One of the greatest dangers to a cat is leaving it in a closed car, even for a few minutes during hot weather. Cars heat quickly and leaving windows open a few inches does not always provide sufficient circulating air to keep you cat cool and comfortable. Insufficient air can lead to heat stress, suffocation and death.

If it is necessary to leave your cat in the car for a short period of time, choose a shaded area. Leave the windows open as far as safely possible to provide air circulation. Keep the cat in the carrier. Check the car frequently and never leave your cat for an extended time. Motion sickness may be a problem with your cat. If this occurs and if taking your cat with you is essential, discuss preventive measures with your veterinarian.

If the drive is eight hours or longer, give the cat an opportunity to use a litter pan every three or four hours. If the cat is inclined to have accidents along the way, put newspapers on the bottom of the carrier and sprinkle cat litter on them. The newspaper and soiled litter can be removed as needed.

Tristan Andrews writes useful articles about cats and kittens. Discover and explore the feline world. Find out how to better care for, train and live with your cat at the cat forums at http://www.i-love-cats.com
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Get Rid Of Cats

Thursday, January 27th, 2011 at 5:39 am

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Natural Oils to Get Rid of Fleas and Ticks

Author: M. Christian

When your dog suffers from fleas and ticks, they will certainly scratch its body rigorously. It might lead to bleeding and further skin infection. Since manufactured repellents can be dangerous in application, it is better to use the natural oils as alternatives. The oil substance can be subtracted from cinnamon, lemon grass and thyme. Their applications are very effective and safe for both dogs and the owners.

The natural oils are effective to eliminate all kind of fleas and ticks, but you should remember that these applications are not for the dog's face area, such as eyes, nose and ears. You can spray the oil over your dog's coat weekly, starting from the tail, underbelly and legs area. After the spray, you can rub the coat in the reverse direction to make the oil penetrated into the dog's skin

The oil application will not bring any effect for the dog and owner, but is very effective to kill the fleas and ticks. These natural oils will not enter the dog's bloodstream, but it will go to the dog's hair follicles to give a full coat protection. Therefore, it is very safe to use for the dogs.

Besides as the skin application, you can also use these natural oils to be sprayed all over your house, especially the area where the fleas like to infest and hide, such as dog's bedding, window sills, room corners, doors, mattress, cracks and crevices.

You can also source tea tree oil for your dog's treatment because the fleas do not like its odor. It is very simple to prepare, as you only need to pour a teaspoonful of tea tree oil into a cup of warm water. After that, you can take a spray bottle and fill it with this liquid. Before you spray it all over your dog's coat, you need to shake the bottle first to make the liquid mixed thoroughly.

Regarding the dosage, you can use this tea tree oil once a day to eliminate the flea and tick effectively. Besides that, this application is also excellent to prevent the skin irritation. For your further reference, you can also use the Eucalyptus oil as the natural repellent. This type of oil is also great and safe to apply to your dogs.

These natural oils are considered as safer to eliminate the fleas and ticks from your dog, since they do not contain any hazardous chemical substance. Therefore, there is no side effect caused as well. They are very effective to use and environment friendly.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/natural-oils-to-get-rid-of-fleas-and-ticks-1717587.html

About the Author

Read article about Apply Frontline Plus on our website: Frontline Plus Dogs.

Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
What is a good way to rid cats of fleas?
I'm wondering if there are safe ways to get rid of them, without buying some sort of chemical to put on the cat. A friend told me lemon juice, but he wasn't sure.
- ANSWER:
  The only safe and effective way to get rid of fleas is with a product from your vet, or Frontline or Advantage from the pet store. These are chemicals, true - but they won't harm your cat and will actually get rid of the fleas. The other garbage you can buy - Hartz, Sargent's, Bio Spot, Zodiac, etc contain chemicals that can cause seizures and death in cats so should never be used. No home remedy will actually kill the fleas, and that includes lemon juice.
QUESTION:
How can I get rid of my cat's fleas?
My cat has a lot of fleas, so I took him to the vet and I used what they gave me, the fleas went a way for a few months but then came back as strong as it started. How can I get rid of the fleas?
- ANSWER:
QUESTION:
Mother is threatening to get rid of cat! Please help!?
For a certain reason, we must have a door open in our house. I constantly have to watch to make sure my cat doesn't get out. Then, I heard her about to get out, and I yelled "DAMN IT," half to scare my cat into freezing, half I was scared I wouldn't catch her in time. As my brilliant luck would have it, my mother happened to come home at the EXACT same time, and she heard me yell the cuss word. Now she is enraged and says she's going to get rid of my cat. This is COMPLETELY unfair, because not only does she swear with worse words, my older brother swears with worse words too, AND she hears him way more than me. I'm not even sure if she heard me more than once. My brother doesn't even get a mad face shot at him, for WORSE WORDS that he said! She won't hear me out at all. I want to keep my cat very much. What should I do? And, I'm 17, so I don't know why she's coming down so hard on me.
- ANSWER:
QUESTION:
Will Bleach get rid of this cat Pee smell on carpet?
My cat sprayed on my carpet and it had a really bad smell and nothing got rid of it! So for about 2 months I have been trying to remove the smell with baking soda, professional pet odor remover, vinegar, and coffee grains... The smell mosty went away but you could still smell it. It didn't seep in the carpet because it wasn't direct pee. It was a spray... All the products would work for a little like a day but then the smell would come back. Now I smell the Nasty baking soda (it was the scented arm and hammers kind) and a little tiny tiny bit of pee when I get down on my knees and sniff the carpet. Before I left for my dads yestardy I finally tried bleach, my carpet is light so it didn't stain... And I finally couldn't smell anything... Even the bleach smell went away... The question is does bleach really remove these smells or is it just a cover up?
- ANSWER:
  Bleach won't remove the smell.
  
  The best cat urine odor remover I've ever found is Lemon Scented Pine Sol.
  
  I had a problem with cat urine smells when I babysat my father's cat for 3 months. I tried Vinegar, Baking Soda, Urine Gone, and Febreze. None of these worked for me. What finally eliminated stench of pee was Lemon Scented Pine Sol. Nothing else even dented that smell.
  
  Pour undiluted Lemon Scented Pine Sol into a spritzer bottle and spray the carpet with this. Allow to dry.
  
  Small warning: the scent of the Lemon Pine Sol will be absolutely overwhelming for a while (it actually made me woozy), but the smell dissipates. And once it does the urine smell will be gone -- not covered up, but gone.
  
  You might have to repeat a couple of times, but this works.
  
  Make sure you use the Lemon Scented Pine Sol, not the regular scent.
  
  -
QUESTION:
Humane way to rid Cat of hanging around my feeders.?
I love cats I have 2 myself strictly indoor. I have a bird feeding station in my yard. I have not had any issues with predators but today I noticed a gray cat hanging around. I don't have a fenced yard and its not an option to get one but wondered if there is any kind of safe humane repellant I could use to keep him away but not harm the birds or the chipmunks. I can't use a water hose because it would make a huge mess but didn;t know if anyone knew of a repellant for cats but safe for the birds and chipmunks and something that won't repell them.
- ANSWER:
  A predator scent product might work - the smell of a larger predator is supposed to scare cats away humanely. You can find it online or at garden supply shops.
  http://www.critter-repellent.com/cats/cats-in-my-garden-flowerbed.php
  
  However, I don't know whether or not the scent would frighten the birds and chipmunks away. If the birds & chipmunks are still there in spite of the cat, I doubt the predator scent would frighten them away. They may not be as sensitive to scent as cats are. I have a little wild cat that lives in my front garden, and the birds come right up to her and eat out of her food bowl, because she never chases them (she prefers the cat food). So if the scent doesn't represent a direct threat to them, they'll probably ignore it. The only way to tell for sure though would be to give it a try...if it does frighten them away, they'll probably return after a good rain or two washes the scent away.
  
  Hope this helps!

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How To Treat Cat Fleas

Wednesday, January 26th, 2011 at 10:26 pm

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How to Treat Cat Bites and the Cat Scratch Disease

Author: Natalie Williams

All cat owners will know that there are times when the cat will nip at you. Cat bites can causing anything from a tiny scratch to an open wound. It is crucial for cat owners and those who only have occasional contact with cats to understand the criticalness of cat bites and how to treat cat bites to prevent cat-related diseases.

Why Does a Cat Bite?

Typically, cats bite for two reasons only. First of all, you may have been playing too rough with your kitty, which causes your cat to respond with a bite. Also, cats may bite is if they are upset about something you have done or just upset in general. Cats love to have to have privacy and they may respond angrily if someone does not respect that.

Treatment of Cat Bites

You could treat cat bites by washing the cut with soap, applying antiseptic lotion and pasting a plaster over the wound. This will ensure that the wound is clean and free from germs.

What is the Cat Scratch Disease?

A bite or scratch from a cat may lead to a more serious problem known as the cat scratch disease. The cat scratch disease is a bacterial infection caused by a cat's bite or scratch. It can also be the result of a cat licking an open wound on your body. Cats get the bacteria from fleas, and transmit it to people via their saliva Cat scratch disease is harmless to the cat but it is harmful to people who have been scratched, bitten or licked by a cat.

Symptoms of Cat Scratch Disease

People who suffer from cat scratch disease largely experience the swelling of the lymph nodes. Other symptoms may include fatigue, headache, fever, sore throat or loss of appetite.

Treatment of Cat Scratch Disease

Almost all episodes of cat scratch disease will go away on their own. Non-prescription medicine like acetaminophen or ibuprofen could help alleviate the pain in the lymph nodes. It is a good idea to see a doctor to confirm diagnosis and seek treatment if you are unsure do not know what to do some of the more serious cases of cat scratch disease may require prescription antibiotics to heal.

Prevention of Cat Scratch Disease

You could easily avoid catching cat scratch disease if you know how to prevent getting bitten or scratched by a cat. A cat is telling you to go away when it shows any of the following warning signs like meowing in an angry tone, moving their ears backwards, harmlessly swiping you or hissing. Also, wash your hands immediately after touching a cat. Lastly, if you are bitten or scratched by a cat, be sure to wash your wound right away.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diseases-and-conditions-articles/how-to-treat-cat-bites-and-the-cat-scratch-disease-182977.html

About the Author

Please visit Natalie's SkinDiseaseArchive.com for more free tips on how to deal with some common skin conditions and much more.

Frequently Asked Questions

QUESTION:
how to treat cat fleas?
- ANSWER:
  A lot depends on how severe. Step one is to get a flea comb, and see how bad things are. But the secret is that you have to treat both the cat and the environment. So if your cat is indoors, and you don't take care of the sleeping area, re-infestation will happen.
  
  Your vet has good products such as Advantage, Frontline Plus or Revolution. Revolution, available only from your vet, has excellent properties and provides other protections then just against fleas. Frontline Plus has a second ingredient that prevents eggs from hatching.
  
  Revolution is systemic, and kills fleas quickly. Frontline Plus and Advantage normally will kill fleas within 24 hours during the first two weeks, and 48 hours during the last two weeks.
  
  It can take from 3-8 weeks to break the flea-egg cycle.
  
  But if you use something like Revolution, and then a flea fogger bomb in your house, you should really eliminate the problems, unless you bring in fleas from outdoors.
QUESTION:
How long can Fleas of a Cat live after the Cat has been treated?
Our Cat had Fleas, we treated the Cat and sprayed the house with Flea killer. My question is how long will it take to kill and be rid of all the Fleas? He is an indoor cat so I'm also curious as to how he might have got Fleas also? He does not come into any contact with any other animals.
- ANSWER:
  it depends on what you use. Most treatments only kill eggs. The fleas themselves are hard to kill. Bath the cat in dawn or baby body wash. IT is gental but so thick it smothers them. They'll come right out. But before you do it put a little bit of the soap and put it around the nose and ears because when you start to put the soap on the bugs will run to the driest areas. If they get into the nose or ears you'll have more issues. Also vacuum AT LEAST three times a day. Vibrations from walking on your carpet will make the eggs hatch. Wash whatever towels you use in warm water.
QUESTION:
Any veternarians, vet techs out there with advice? Think cat has anemia from fleas. How to treat at home? ?
Due to lost job/low funds I didn't use flea preventative this summer. On discovering fleas a few days ago, I treated cats w/Advantage, trashed their bedding, treated the yard & am vacuuming/mopping the house (no carpet) - that reduced the fleas tremendously. One cat is not well - has lost weight & gums are paler than usual, is panting, feels dehydrated & colder than usual. I think red blood cells are low due to the flea bites - I know vets give transfusions for this, but what else do they do? I'm keeping her warm, giving water & a cat iron/vitamin supplement & trying to get her to eat. I have some leftover Baytril & Doxycycline - would either help in this situation? I can't go to the vets until I receive payment for a job - probably a few days. She lives with 5 other cats - all are altered/current on vaccines/tested neg for FeLV/FIV & live inside only & presently seem ok. What home care can I give to help her? I also have left over subQ fluids from an elderly cat that died of kidney failure - would that help or hurt? - don't want to make a bad situation worse.
- ANSWER:
  Call local vets or humane society and explain your situation, asking if they can offer a payment plan, or see if you can put on credit until you receive payment, and take the cat in ASAP. Anemia is life threatening, as you're aware. A good vet will not sacrifice the safety of an animal to wait for payment in a few days. Also - don't give anything a vet hasn't recommended, especially old meds/fluids.
  
  Long term, consider getting an ovicollar, at least for one of the cats and putting the remainder of the collar (that would overlap) into your vacuum cleaner. It'll kill any eggs and stop the life cycle of the fleas (and is non-toxic). It's about at the vets.
QUESTION:
How do I rid my house of cat fleas? We have hard wood flooring and they are everywhere.?
We have 2 cats, one which has the fleas. We have nothing but a rug in our living room and hard wood flooring throughout the rest of the house. The fleas are overrunning our household. I do not believe we can afford an exterminator, so I want to do it myself. They are in every room of the house, even the bathrooms and bedrooms. How can I get rid of them for good? They are biting all of us and I can't stand it anymore. I have treated the cats and cleaned the house well, but the house still has fleas and so does the cat. *sigh*
Thanks.
- ANSWER:
  for the ones on ur cat bath him/her
  in the house get a pest bomb and leave house for few hours
  it kills everything inside house
QUESTION:
What is the best way to get rid of cat fleas in the house (wooden floors)?
Also, how long will the fleas live, ie, if we just shut a door and don't go into that room for a week or so will they die?

We have treated our cat with Frontline which is supposed to be very effective, but the fleas are still around the flat.

Thanks.
- ANSWER:
  Frontline is great, You want to put the cats that were treated with frontline into the room with the fleas so they die on contact, Fleas are unstoppable pest that will not die!!! you can leave unhatched eggs for over a year and once they detect heat they will hatch, you need to spray all the carpets and keep the treated cats as a magnet to kill the fleas! also make sure that the flea spray you buy kills all 3 stages of flea life not just 1! good luck, it's time to bring out the big guns! also they sell great Flea Traps on ebay, they are a tiny plastic thing with holes and a light on top the flea jump to the light and fall onto the sticky paper it kills thousands that you never would have imagined were in your house.

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Archive for January, 2011

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